Wednesday, April 15, 2009

Finger Lakes Wine Notes from The Weekend Wino - April 2009


As I have visited Finger Lakes wineries this year, I have noticed one grape variety that I believe is setting a new standard in the Finger Lakes - Gewurztraminer (pronounced guh-VERTS-trah-mee-ner). I am a fan of Gewurztraminer, but it is a difficult grape to get a good balance of spice, fruit, and acidity, especially with the Finger Lakes normally difficult growing climate But the 2007 growing season seems to have produced optimal conditions for Gewurztraminer in the Finger Lakes as evidenced by the number of outstanding '07 Gewurztraminers I have already tasted on my early winery visits this year.

I know that a lot of folks find Gewurztraminer's spicy tones a bit hard to handle, but when that spiciness is portrayed in soft rounded tones and perfectly balanced with the floral and fruit aspects, then I believe there is no more beautifully complex, aromatic and flavorful wine than Gewurztraminer. If you have been turned off by Gewurztraminer in the past, I urge you to give it another chance. These are my top suggestions for Finger Lakes Gewurztraminer from my winery visits so far this year:

> Dr. Frank 2007 Reserve Gewurztraminer, $24.99, Extremely aromatic multi-toned floral and spice on the nose, layers and layers of plush tangerine, honey, juicy ripe peach, and apricot with complex spice tones including deep palate hints of cinnamon and even sweet basil. An amazingly complex Finger Lakes Gewurz and a value at $24.99. They’ve already set the standard with Riesling, and Dr. Frank’s winemaking team has done it again, this time with Gewurz. Beautiful!!!

> Red Newt 2007 Saw Mill Creek Gewurztraminer, $35.99, Owner Dave Whiting is crafting some single vineyard wines to define the profiles of specific vineyard locations. This can lead to a premium price tag, but it also leads to wines that define regions. This Gewurz from Jim Hazlitt’s Saw Mill Creek vineyard is classic terroir. An exceptional ‘07 Gewurz with unbelievable aromatics with perfumed layers of floral and exotic spice, with subtle delicate tropical flavors of melon and kiwi into a solid spicy mineral finish.

> McGregor Vineyard 2007 Gewurztraminer (Semi-Dry), $19.99, a semi-dry style, nice aromas and very soft mouth feel with lots of rounded spice undertones and ample fruit with an interesting hint of mint. McGregor has crafted a beautifully balanced Gewurz for those who prefer a Gewurz with a touch of sweetness.

> Ravines 2007 Gewurztraminer, $24.95, This is Classic dry style Gewurz in Morten Hallgren’s elegantly structured style, fresh floral and delicate spice aromatics, soft rose petal and smooth clove and petrol tones into an extremely long finish. Morten strips this wine down to cell level and reveals the actual soul of the vine, and it is heavenly. Not much of this wine left, get it while you can.

So don't be afraid of the "spice" of Gewurztraminer. Live the "spice", Love the "spice", and your taste buds will be rewarded. I'll see you on the Wine Trails!

Rob Lane is a Wine & Food Writer for Mountain Home Magazine and publisher of the Finger Lakes Weekend Wino Blog

1 comments:

Anonymous said...

Sorry but you missed my favorite...the 07 Penguin Bay Gewurtz! I know it's easy to overlook PB but they've got a great 07 Gewurtz there. It won "Best of Show" white wine at the LA International Wine Competition. It's a pretty elegant dry Gewurtz despite the cartoony label.

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